The Early History of Jewellery: From Ancient Times to the 17th Century
Jewellery dates back more than 25,000 years, with one of the earliest discoveries found in a cave in Monaco. A simple necklace made of fish bones is believed to have held significant meaning for the wearer, whether it was a chief, healer, or a royal figure. While we may never know its exact purpose, the discovery offers us a glimpse into the early human need for identity, self-expression, and connection.
Jewellery as Trophies and Amulets in Ancient Cultures
In ancient societies, jewellery wasn't just decorative- it had magical and spiritual significance. Early adornments, such as teeth, claws, horns, and bones, were worn as trophies from successful hunts. These items were believed to bring good luck and protection to hunters in future endeavors. The role of the hunter was crucial for survival, and these symbols conveyed respect and status within the community.
As time passed, jewellery became associated with amulets meant to ward off bad luck, illness, and misfortune. The magical properties of gemstones were believed to grant the wearer control over key aspects of life such as fertility, wealth, and love. Even today, jewellery remains a symbol of power, with tales of ancient jewellery providing its owners with extraordinary luck and fortune.
Jewellery as a Symbol of Connection and Commitment
In more recent centuries, jewellery evolved to represent human connection and commitment. For example, wedding rings became symbols of lifelong bonds between partners, while bracelets were used to mark ownership or status, such as in slavery or servitude. In the past, only the wealthy or high-ranking church officials were permitted to wear gemstones, symbolizing their elite position in society. Lower classes often wore simpler versions of jewellery to mimic the elite, adding color and flair to their garments.
In some cultures, jewellery was used for more practical reasons, such as enhancing the physical appearance or projecting fearlessness. For instance, some African tribes used lip plugs and neck rings to modify their bodies, making individuals appear more intimidating or to prevent other tribes from kidnapping them.
Jewellery in Ancient Iran and the Mediterranean
The first evidence of jewellery-making in the Mediterranean and what is now Iran dates back to 3,000-4,000 BC. Early examples include stone amulets and seals, which often carried spiritual symbols, including stars and floral patterns. These amulets were not only worn by individuals but were also offered to gods and used to adorn statues.
The Royal Tombs in ancient Sumer (circa 3000 BC) provided some of the richest collections of jewelry, including headdresses, necklaces, earrings, crowns, and pins, showcasing the opulence and craftsmanship of the time.
The Egyptians: Masters of Symbolism in Jewellery
Ancient Egyptians were famous for their amulets and talismans, with iconic symbols like the scarab beetle and the ankh, representing life. Jewellery pieces, such as bracelets made from multiple strands of colored gemstones, were crafted from materials like amethyst, carnelian, turquoise, and green feldspar. These pieces were not only beautiful but also had deep symbolic meaning.
The Egyptians also used gemstones to symbolize various deities and territories. For example, the vulture represented the goddess Nekhbet, while the cobra symbolized the protection of Lower Egypt. Royal jewellers worked with precious metals like gold, silver, and stones like lapis lazuli, which was traded from Afghanistan.
The Color Symbolism of Egyptian Jewelry
Color was incredibly important to the Egyptians, as they believed it reflected the wearer's personality and energy. Gold and yellow symbolized the sun and were often used in the crowns and ornaments of pharaohs and their priests. Green stones, such as emeralds, were placed in the mouths of the pharaohs to aid in speech in the afterlife, while the red heart amulet was believed to protect the soul. The golden Udjat (Eye of Horus) was worn for health and protection.
Conclusion: The Evolution of Jewellery Through the Ages
From ancient amulets and trophies to the opulent jewelry of the Egyptian pharaohs, jewellery has always played a crucial role in human culture. Its symbolism, from magical protection to status and commitment, highlights how adornment has evolved over millennia. Jewellery continues to be a powerful expression of identity, culture, and self-worth in today’s society.
Image 1. A ROMANO-EGYPTIAN GOLD COBRA PENDANT
CIRCA 2ND CENTURY A.D.
With finely detailed scales and sun disc, with twisted loop at the back
Image 2. THREE ROMAN GOLD PENDANTS
CIRCA 2ND-3RD CENTURY A.D.
Each leaf-shaped sheet with a repoussé female bust depicted frontally, her head turned slightly to her left, one wearing a Phrygian cap, each pendant framed by a plain border, the point with a wire threaded through an emerald, a ribbed suspension loop above, two with filigree scrolling and one with embossed rosettes in the field; strung together on a modern gold chain.
